HEALTH

You're about to be an acne expert: We're here to help you solve all your zit sitches, stat.

There's only one thing worse than discovering a new breakout—not knowing what kind of breakout it is. Here's the deal: You'll never be able to nix a pimple properly if you don't know its kryptonite. (Do you try an overnight benzoyl peroxide? Pimple patches? A mask, maybe?) Learn exactly what's making your skin freak out, then say byeeee to blemishes.

I.D. your acne

POV: You just woke up to some sort of spot. Time to figure out what you're, um, facing.

@laviniarusanda

Comedonal

These bumps aren't inflamed, but that doesn't mean you don't hate them.

Whiteheads: These tiny dots are *closed* pores clogged with sebum (fatty oil) and skin cells. They appear—you guessed it—white.

Pro move: Meet your new breakout bestie: beta hydroxy acid (BHA). This chemical exfoliator, like salicylic acid, gently sheds dead skin cells and keeps pores from clogging. Another great option? Retinoids. "They balance skin cell production and reduce inflammation," says dermatologist Dr. Shari Sperling. "Comedones also respond very well to retinol treatment." But beware: Both BHAs and retinoids can be a bit drying, so be sure to finish with a hydrating moisturizer.

Blackheads: These tiny *open* pores get clogged and react to oxygen, turning them black.

Pro move: Start by treating the same as a whitehead, but call in a bit more backup—like a clay mask to suck out oil or a liquid exfoliator that targets trouble spots.

CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Body and Face Lotion, $16 | Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment, $15 | Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, $35 | Bubble Skincare Come Clean Detoxifying Clay Mask, $19 | Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, $20

Inflammatory

The classic pimple in its true form.

Papules: The medical term for pimples, papules present as small, raised bumps that are pretty painful to the touch. They emerge when bacteria gets trapped in clogged pores and your immune system sends cells to fight the infection.

Pro move: "Inflammatory cysts respond best to benzoyl peroxide, which penetrates into the pore to kill the bacteria," says Dr. Sperling. Dab a bit of spot treatment on each pimple every morning and night after your cleanser but before your moisturizer. Got sensitive skin? Stick to just one application before bed.

Pustules: These pus-filled bumps just begging to be popped are basically mini infections on your face.

Pro move: You can go ahead and squeeze...but proceed with caution (and pls follow the steps below). If you've got a bit more patience, stick on a hydrocolloid pimple patch—these stickers draw out oil and fluids while protecting your skin from further infection.

Zapzyt Acne Treatment Gel, $11 | Starface Hydro-Star Pimple Patches, $15

Cystic

Ouch! These blemishes hurt...big time.

Cysts & Nodules: These painful, sometimes large and hard pimples are deep-rooted beneath the skin and are caused by hormones (that's why they're so tricky to treat). Cysts are filled with pus, while nodules are not—they lay beneath the skin and don't often make it to the surface.

Pro move: Do. Not. Pop. These. If you're dealing with extreme acne, seek out a doc—they'll likely recommend a regimen, RX treatment or an oral prescription that'll help regulate your hormones. "For scarring acne or resistant acne, discuss options like Accutane with your dermatologist," advises Dr. Sperling.

@simphiwee_mb

To pop or not to pop?

That is the question—and while the correct answer is never pop, we'd be lying if we said we don't succumb to temptation sometimes too. And (believe it or not) there are even a few sitches that call for a pimple to be popped. Esthetician Renée Rouleau says you have the green light when your pimple has a visible whitehead at the surface.

Start by applying a warm compress (soak a washcloth in water that's not too hot to the touch) to the pimple for 10 to 15 minutes. This helps loosen the gunk inside and brings it closer to the surface.

"Wrap your clean fingers in a tissue, then softly squeeze the pimple from different angles until the infection is released," says Rouleau. If you see a little blood and some clear liquid, that's totally normal. But "if nothing comes out after three tries, leave it alone," she says. If you keep squeezing, that's when problems like scarring start, so back away, babe.

@realskinprogress

The future of zit zappers is here

Sure, you can't instantly poof away a pimple, but these tools of tomorrow are the next best thing.

Light Therapy: LED face wands combine both red and blue light waves to kill acne-causing bacteria—both on the surface of your skin and inside your pores. The light also calms redness and inflammation.

High Frequency Wands: These sticks *literally* zap acne with low-level electric currents. The currents create thermal energy, giving your skin an oxygen increase—boosting circulation and busting zit-causing bacteria.

Skin Gym ZitLit LED Acne Fighting Stick, $35 | Faisca Argon Purple High Frequency Wand, $60

3 sneaky ways to stop acne in its tracks

Swap your shampoo: Make sure all your shower suds are non-comedogenic, meaning they won't clog your pores and contribute to breakouts (on your face, back or booty).

Clear it with cover-up: We're here for a dewy foundation that actually *improves* skin (thanks to salicylic acid) while offering an instantly flawless finish.

Ditch the dark spots: Is the shadow of a past pimple still haunting you? Get the skin-boosting benefits of micro-needling technology with a tiny patch that allows for deeper ingredient absorption—meaning brighter skin sooner.

Drybar Agua Fresca Hydrating Shampoo & Conditioner, $29 each | Hero Cosmetics Mighty Acne Patch Micropoint for Dark Spots, $12 | Clinique Acne Solutions Liquid Makeup, $36

Check out more health-related content:
✨6 natural ways to soothe your period cramps
✨The teen girl's ultimate guide to shaving
✨Accepting your acne: Real girls open up about their skincare struggles

Hey, girl! Just wanted to let you know that this piece originally ran in our August/September 2024 issue. Want more? Read the print mag for free *today* when you click HERE.

Top image: @megs_skin
Slider image: @laviniarusanda

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by GL | 8/7/2024