Sometime in the last year or so, I started to notice a barrage of bizarre-looking face masks taking over my TikTok feed.

Suddenly, every influencer I followed was strapping a strange contraption to her face and blasting her skin with red light on the reg. And while I’m a fairly open-minded beauty girlie who’ll give pretty much any product a whirl (Sea algae face cream? Snail mucin serum? Hand it over!), I have to admit that I was pretty darn skeptical of the LED craze at first.

But unlike some beauty trends that disappear faster than your fave Summer Fridays lip butter balm (iykyk), LED light therapy has actually stuck around—and not just with influencers. Dermatologists use it in-office, celebs swear by it and now there are a zillion at-home gadgets promising everything from glowier skin to fewer breakouts.

So is LED light therapy actually worth the hype, or just another expensive social media obsession? I asked a derm to break down what teens *really* need to know before flipping on the light…

Um, what even is LED light therapy?

LED (aka “light-emitting diode”) therapy is a skin treatment that uses targeted wavelengths of light to treat various complexion conditions. Depending on the color and strength, the light can help calm inflammation, fight acne-causing bacteria or support your skin’s healing process.

“It’s a gentle, non-invasive option that can support clearer, calmer skin without disrupting the skin barrier,” explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Kim Nichols.

It’s *not* the same thing as tanning (LED masks don’t use the UV rays that damage your skin and increase skin cancer risk), and though the masks look a little scary, they’re not painful: Most gals describe it like sitting under a warm light for a few minutes.

What color should you use?

Not all LED lights do the same thing, and you may have noticed that many devices come with multiple color settings designed to target different skin concerns.

Red light: Probably the most hyped-up version right now, red light is used to help calm redness and inflammation while supporting collagen production. Gals with sensitive skin or post-breakout redness may especially like this wavelength, since it’s fairly gentle.

Blue light: Dealing with angry zits? Blue light might be your vibe. It targets acne-causing bacteria on the skin (and it’s often combined with red light so you get two benefits in one). While you shouldn’t expect it to magically erase a pimple overnight (if only…), consistent use can help calm breakouts overall.

Green/Purple/Yellow: While some devices advertise a ton of different light settings, the research behind other colors is still pretty limited. Red and blue light are the options with the most evidence behind them rn.

So…does LED light therapy actually work?

Short answer: It can—but it’s not magic.

Research suggests LED light therapy can help with concerns like mild acne and inflammation, especially when used regularly.

“The most important factors are consistency, coverage and device quality,” says Dr. Nichols. “Most devices are designed for use several times per week, but consistency matters more than intensity.”

Basically, LED masks are more of a slow-and-steady skincare tool than an overnight miracle fix. “LED therapy can be a great addition, but it should be viewed as a complement, not a replacement, for a well-rounded skincare routine,” Dr. Nichols explains.

LED masks vs. wands

One scroll through SkinTok will quickly reveal that LED therapy comes in approximately one hundred different forms.

LED masks are probably the most popular option—and for good reason. They’re designed to cover your entire face at once, making them a good choice if you’re dealing with overall redness, acne or uneven texture. “Masks tend to offer more even, full-face treatment, which makes them easier to use regularly,” says Dr. Nichols. And because they’re hands-free, you can wear one while reading, doing HW or watching Netflix.

Our go-to? The Luyors Equinox Pro LED Mask. While most masks only come with two or three wavelengths, the Equinox Pro has six targeted light modes for any skin sitch (think: breakouts, inflammation, overall radiance). It can treat your face, neck and chest at the same time—and the silicone material makes it way more comfy to wear.

LED wands are smaller, handheld devices that target specific areas, like a breakout on your chin or redness around your nose. They’re more portable (and often cheaper) than full-face masks, but they can only treat one area at a time. The LightStim for Acne face wand emits a combo of red and blue light to target breakouts (and you only have to use it for three minutes per area).

No matter which device you choose, Dr. Nichols says that the biggest thing to look for is quality. “It’s important to choose a device from a reputable brand that uses clinically studied wavelengths. Not all devices on the market deliver the same results,” she shares.

One more thing: LED masks and wands can definitely be pricey—so don’t think that you need to drop hundreds of bucks on a skincare gadget right away. If LED light therapy is something you’re genuinely interested in, think of it more as a save-up-for-it, b-day wishlist or investment purchase rather than an impulse buy.

LED light therapy do’s and don’ts

Got your mask strapped on? Good. A few important things to know before you start channeling your inner skincare cyborg…

Protect your eyes: Most masks come with built-in eye shields, while others recommend protective goggles. Either way, don’t stare directly into the lights, pls.

More is not always better: Using your mask for longer than the recommended time won’t help your skin improve faster (and might even cause irritation). Stick to the directions that come with your device. Most masks recommend 10-15 minute sessions a couple of times per week.

Check with a doc in certain sitches: If you take meds that make you sensitive to light or have a diagnosed skin condition, it’s smart to talk with your derm before trying LED light therapy.

Use the mask properly: “LED should always be used on clean skin and followed with a gentle moisturizer. It’s important not to overcomplicate the routine or layer too many active ingredients at once,” says Dr. Nichols. We recommend using your LED mask at night right after cleansing—then you can simply slather on a hydrating serum and get some shut-eye.

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Images: @lucyconlann, @chiarashop.ve, @jorgiekubursi